A live travelog of my journey from Qatar to China. Beside staying some days in Chengdu and Nanchong, the current plan is to visit Sertar (Larung Gar) and Xi’an. The blog will be daily updated depending of the availability of internet coverage and time.
Today the journey to China starts. In about one hour I’m on the way to the airport. From Doha my Himalaya Airlines flight will bring me to Kathmandu and than further with Air China via Lhasa to Chengdu in China where my lovely wife will pick me up from the airport. After one day break we are planning to take a bus to Sertar. But now it’s time to get ready. Uber taxi is already on the way….
Arrived at the airport, a huge line of nepalis was already waiting that the check in counter opens. I planned already before to upgrade to business class since the Himalaya Airline webpage stated that it’s only 200 $ more to be paid during check in. It was obviously that the staff at the counter didn’t exactly know how to handle my request. Later when I was sent to a dark corner of the airport where the cashier was located, it turned out that I was the first one ever who did ask for an upgrade on this flight. I saw the receipt block where my receipt was indeed the first one ever used from this block.
Now boarding has started and I’m a bit exited to experience Himalaya Airlines Business Class.
It turned out that transfer passengers from Qatar arriving with Himalaya Airlines in Kathmandu are another uncommon thing. But very friendly security and airport staff sorted everything out and organized for me the ticket for my connection flight to Chengdu in China.
Unfortunately the Air China flight to Chengdu was delayed for almost 5 hours.
At 4:45 boarding started and after a short stop in Lhasa where the immigration was done and a wild and bumpy ride further to Chengdu we arrived at 11:20 pm.
After we failed to get tickets for the bus to Sertar, we did a small walk and enjoyed the day in Dujiangyan near Chengdu with sunflower seeds and green tea. The problem with the bus ticket was that police sometimes checks the bus for foreigners going to Sertar. The current situation for foreigners who want visit Sertar is confusing. While there is no official statement that foreigners are not allowed to enter the area, police seems to have instructions to stop them. That’s why we decided to go with a friend’s car who will pick us up from hour hotel the next day.
Saturday, 09.06.2018 – Trip to Sertar
At 11:00 our journey to Sertar started. After a short stop Dujiangyan for lunch we continued our trip on the northern route G317. The route is known to be one of the most dangerous routes in the world. However while road construction is still ongoing, major parts of the road have been already renewed. Starting from Dujiangyan, the road leads thru countless long tunnels, amazing beautiful valleys, villages but also countless construction sites.
At 11:40 we reached a police checkpoint in the village Wengda which is approximately 90 km away from Larung Gar. After 550 km wild ride through the mountains, the police didn’t allow us to enter the area. The reason they gave us:
“There is a lot of construction ongoing and we need to protect our foreign guests. But next year it will be back open again.”
We turned the car and searched for a hotel where we could stay for the night. With some help of locals and a farmer couple we where able to pass the checkpoint at night and reached early morning Larung Gar.
Sunday, 10.06.2018 – Larung Gar
Since it was early morning we checked in in the first available hotel where the interior wasn’t in the best condition. It was just enough to finish the night. We both where still tired from the trip and the elevation of 4,000 m did also show some effect.
After we woke up, my wife checked the city and asked some locals how I as a foreigner can reach the monastery best. My face covered with cap and face mask (I shaved my face already), we continued our trip with a local who brought us to a place where daily sky burials taking place.
After the burial, we walked several km as advised by the locals along the mountains to our final destination. In this height and under consideration that we are both no real hikers, it was challenging. But we did it…
Monday, 11.06.2018 – Back in Wengda
After a walk through the area of the Larung Gar monastery, we checked into a local hotel in. We both suffered from the height and due tot he old beds with hard springs we had a horrible sleepless night.
The next day it was raining and we decided to go back to our hotel in Wengda behind the police checkpoint. We rang our local driver to pick us up. When we arrived at the hotel, I got out of the car and got shocked when I saw that the accommodation of the local police was just opposite our hotel which we didn’t see when we checked in the first time at night. While I was waiting outside of the car for my wife to pay the driver, I already had the feeling that the guy who stopped us recognized me. However, we went to our room and felt after 15 minutes asleep. 2 hours later a knocking on our door woke us up – police. While I was still laying in bed, they had a big discussion with my wife. However, they have never been unfriendly and after a certain time they left without further consequence for us. I want to emphasize that I understand that they just had their orders and therefore their according job to do.
After they left, we booked a private car for the next morning to bring us back to Chengdu. I need to emphasize how friendly and nice the people in this area are. Always very helpful, never cheating and the wife of the hotel owner served us even home made butter tea since we mentioned that we both like this tea so much.
Tuesday, 12.06.2018 – Wild ride back to Chengdu
The next morning we got kicked out of the bed at 5:10 since the car with further passengers was already waiting outside (6:00 was the agreed time). We packed everything together and were only 10 minutes later at the car. We squeezed us in the car with already 5 passengers (+driver) in it, which was usually only allowed to transport max 6 people.
- A young couple
- A doctor
- A Buddhist monk
- A guy
- A chinese with her German husband
And than the ride began. The driver kept a speed between 80 and 100 km/h and just ignored that it was still dark, cows were everywhere crossing or staying on the road and rocks blocking the way due to the rain at night. He overtook cars at the least suitable locations, preferable before curves. While the usual overtaking process consists out of a approaching and acceleration phase, he remained at the approaching speed until the overtaken car was left behind. The whole trip was like a Rally with the spectators sitting directly in the car. To be fair, it seemed to be only me – the crazy German taking note of the wild ride. Ok, at least the monk did somehow recognize it, since he opened the window after an hour and started emptying his stomach while still at full speed.
9:00 o clock was breakfast time.
We continued our ride with trucks appearing on our lane due to the narrow road, sudden reversing cars from construction sites, further stones on the road….
…until our driver became the information regarding a police control a few kilometers ahead. The monk was forced to leave the car and pass the checkpoint by food. After the checkpoint our driver stopped and started washing the car while waiting for the missing passenger.
With a clean car we hit the road again
60 km before reaching Chengdu I recognized that we got slower and slower although we had been back on a proper Highway again. I looked at the Driver’s face in the back mirror, and saw that his eyes looked tired and his mouth was open. I told my wife my Observation and she started immediatly talking to the Driver and asking him if he feels tired. He confirmed that and the the doctor who was sitting close to him started giving him a head massage.
Lessons learned: Never again traveling with a private car in China where you don’t know the driver!
Wednesday, 13.06.2018 – Saturday 16.06.2018 – Recovering in Chengdu and Nanchong
After the trip to Larung Gar, we both required some recovering from the trip. Arrived in Chengdu we checked nearby Hotels and ended up in a very lovely hostel in close proximitiy to Jinli Old Street.